pavedwave distance skateboarding

model.citizen · Posted: Sat Mar 14, 2009 2:04 pm Post subject:

hmmm....true dat. i guess i had my head more around preventing bushing death due to the long threads. but of course if you're replacing the KP with a less-threaded one then this is moot.

by alloy weld i mean actually MIG or TIG welding a bead or two of alloy welding wire into the alloy baseplate, to anchor the KP head.

the weld doesn't need to be much, just a couple of blobs that prevent the head from turning...just enough to penetrate the baseplate alloy (and, since cast alloy is generally "dirty" and often contains alot of air bubbles, you don't want to weld too hard in there so as to prevent weakening the baseplate)

if you use a high enough amperage on your MIG welder, you can even stick alloy to steel (after a fashion) using plain steel welding wire.

if you're using JB weld, make sure you use the runny 2-pack affair, rather than the all-in-one kneadable crap (doesn't stick so well). before applying, rough up the surface of the baseplate (a centre punch is best to create little dimples) which well help the JB adhere better.

another option is to drill and tap a 4 or 6mm hole into the baseplate near where the KP head sits, and screw in a grubscrew so that it sits against the KP head and prevents it from turning. just pop a bit of Loctite on the grubscrew first so that it doesn't vibrate out.
if you don't have access to a set of taps and dies, then you could always force a thick short wood screw/machine screw into the hole you've drilled (with a bit of Loctite for good measure).

it's the engineer and fabricator in me coming out! Very Happy

Ian the Groove Worshipper · Joined: 03 Dec 2008 Posts: 79 Location: Largo, FL

I have done the KP swap on several Bennett baseplates now, using the Loctite shown above. A few of the KPs came loose, and needed repeat applications of Loctite, but now seem to be sticking. So you know, I indeed had prepped the surface prior to applying the Loctite with Acetone and 600 grit sandpaper.

While they are sticking for the time being, if they continue to come loose, I was considering trying JB Weld.

I've never used JB Weld before. For those of you who have, how permanent/strong is it? Would it still be possible to remove the JB Welded KP without causing damage to the baseplate for future KP changes?

model.citizen · Posted: Sat Mar 14, 2009 8:34 pm Post subject:

JB weld just needs a hammer and a screwdriver to remove it - not difficult. Kinda like Loctite. doesn't eat into surfaces, but if applied correctly lasts almost forever.

it'll generally remove as a chunk, that's why you need to really prep the surface (not just clean and abraded) before using it, otherwise under vibration it can just come free.

camel · Posted: Sun Mar 15, 2009 5:23 am Post subject: Is that your final answer?

This is ALL you need guys. I have been using it for over a year. (It says it is for China and Porcelin, that is just because it dries "off white". It is WAY more than you would ever need for that kind of repair.)

Devcon 2Oz White 2-Ton Epoxy S30

"Bonds and repairs metal, wood, concrete, glass, ceramics, porcelain, china, tile/fixtures and fiberglass. Sandable and paintable. 2500 psi bond strength. Sets in 1 hour."

http://www.hardwareandtools.com/invt/6393680

I have never had this come loose, it has a slight bit of flex that keeps it from breaking loose. Slather it around in the kp hole and the inside of the baseplate. Wrap the threads tightly with saran wrap, push through the hole. Assemble the truck after cleaning excess and leave it overnight. In the morning you will have a permanent bond between kp and baseplate. Works like a champ every time...

LDPanda · Joined: 21 Nov 2008 Posts: 484 Location: Seattle, WA

I put together a bennett 5.0 baseplate with the new KPs that james and i had made. I used red loctite 262 (the same one pictured above). The KP is a little shorter than im used to, i couldnt fit my current bushing combo on there but i made something work for now. I probably wont use it for the ultra considering its so close and i dont want to dial in a new bushing combo. Anyway, as far as i can tell, the red loctite is working just fine. I was able to put the nut on fine without any slippage or slop. I rode it around the neighborhood for a second but its kinda wet out and i didnt want to push it. The KP clearance is nice, very little of the bushing is on threads, over all im pretty satisfied. I think the loctite worked fine despite its many opponents Smile

LDPanda · Joined: 21 Nov 2008 Posts: 484 Location: Seattle, WA

Finally got around to mounting that new baseplate on my pulse and im glad i did. The stock bennett kingpin in the baseplate i took off showed visible signs of metal fatigue arond the base and audibly jiggled around the plate. Im just glad it didnt break during the ultra! My standard bushing combo worked out just fine, i dont know what i was talking about before, i must not have tried very hard (or the bushings have worn in a bit). The loctite is still working fine, i had it mounted with a 5.0 hangar on my mistress and took it out for a few rides before. Its certianly more secure than the old one! The KP is slightly shorter and adds a tiny bit to kp clearance. I like the shiny top Cool

Heres the old one. the fatigue doesnt show up real well in the photo but here it is anyway.