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Khiro Bushings Shredding - Solved
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cappa



Joined: 11 Oct 2008
Posts: 42

PostPosted: Sun Oct 12, 2008 9:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

egret wrote:
f
I tried JB Weld over the threads.  I used a Popsicle stick to smooth it out as much as possible but the stuff settled even smoother on it's own. I got it down about a half inch past the threads.  It cured leaving a nice glassy surface.  Next time I'll clean the KP better and apply it thinner to just fill in the threads.  The thickness I have does not   leave enough clearance for the metal tipped khiro bushings.  I had to bore out a cupped washer and use a regular khiro.  The bushings are a little snug.  No biggie.

I went out and pumped about 5 miles ad examined the bushings.  No noticable wear so far.  The JB Weld came off on the smooth shaft but not the threads.  I didn't use a degreaser and didn't roughen the surface before applying the JBW.

I'll get more miles in before I give it a thumbs up but so far so good.


How is the JB Weld solution holding up longer term? Seems like the easy solution  Smile


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scooterdad



Joined: 15 Jan 2009
Posts: 69
Location: Eastern Shore, Maryland

PostPosted: Sun Feb 01, 2009 4:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thought I might give this thread a bump.  I am chewing through bushings already in the short three weeks I have had my board with 5.0 Bennett front.  I have tried using Gorilla tape over the threads on the kingpin which helps but doesn't last more than one ride or a few miles.  It seems to me that the hanger pinching the bushing towards the kingpin is a much an issue as the threads  on the kingpin.

Any long-term feedback on the methods mentioned here?  I like the low tech approach of the KB weld.

Thanks.
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LDPanda



Joined: 21 Nov 2008
Posts: 418
Location: Seattle, WA

PostPosted: Sun Feb 01, 2009 8:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use gorilla tape (i might be the only one, idk) and yes, it needs to be replaced every other session or so, but ive found it a cost effective and simple way to reduce shredding. Even if the tape gets pretty mangled, its still doing its job where it matters, under the bushings. I just replaced my bushings last night, put well over 150 miles on the last set before they just started feeling dead. Idk how this compares to others, but i am satisfied enough.
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scooterdad



Joined: 15 Jan 2009
Posts: 69
Location: Eastern Shore, Maryland

PostPosted: Mon Feb 02, 2009 5:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Panda.  My Gorilla tape lasted well on my morning session today.  I made it 15 miles with very little wear on the tape so far.  I've been mixing up other things as well, such as using all orange bushings rather than one white (which I had been doing) and running inverted wheels on my Bennett 5.0/ Tracker rear combo, so I'm not entirely sure if something else isn't helping.  I have also started adding some silicone grease over the bushings/hanger area to see if it prevents some grabbing/pinching.

I'm trying to keep it low tech if possible, but hopefully not waste bushings so quickly.
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Barry



Joined: 19 Jul 2008
Posts: 101
Location: Middlesex, U.K. Near Heathrow Airport

PostPosted: Wed Feb 04, 2009 4:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I posted this as a seperate thread here but had no interest in it so I will post it here, I modify my Bennett like this:

http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Kno...r/TrukBushingModificationsForLDP#
The pictures and details should be ample instruction.

I have done hundreds of miles on the same sets of bushing used in each truck not all in one day though Very Happy and the bushing show "NO!" wear from the king pins I use.
It works so well for me that I bought all the Randal  RII type king pins Vinny had left  Wink

Good Luck.
Take care,
Barry Wink
_________________
Barry Brown.
Rope & Canvas Craftsman.
Practical Works Of Art,
Inspred By Tradition.
http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/ropeandcanvas
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Knotty.Bear
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scooterdad



Joined: 15 Jan 2009
Posts: 69
Location: Eastern Shore, Maryland

PostPosted: Wed Feb 04, 2009 5:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Barry.  That looks very promising.  What happens though if the kingpin breaks?  Is the truck then useless or is there a way to remove the broken kingpin if it has  been epoxied in there (I am guessing that is what locktite 243 is) ?

This all begs the question:  If Bennett knows that their trucks are being used so often for LDP set-up, why don't they produce a kingpin with less threading on it?  Or at least make a modified version?  Perhaps it is too small a market, but we certainly are gear-heads so they would sell well at least in small batches Smile
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cappa



Joined: 11 Oct 2008
Posts: 42

PostPosted: Wed Feb 04, 2009 6:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You should sell the modified Bennetts as "the Barnett"  Laughing
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Barry



Joined: 19 Jul 2008
Posts: 101
Location: Middlesex, U.K. Near Heathrow Airport

PostPosted: Wed Feb 04, 2009 11:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

scooterdad wrote:
Thanks Barry.  That looks very promising.  What happens though if the kingpin breaks?  Is the truck then useless or is there a way to remove the broken kingpin if it has  been epoxied in there (I am guessing that is what locktite 243 is) ?

This all begs the question:  If Bennett knows that their trucks are being used so often for LDP set-up, why don't they produce a kingpin with less threading on it?  Or at least make a modified version?  Perhaps it is too small a market, but we certainly are gear-heads so they would sell well at least in small batches Smile


The Loctite 243 is a medieum strengh thread locker, it is a very thin liquid. you only put it on the shaft of the kingpin and a little drop in the hole the kingpin goes in. it is strong enough to hold the kingpin in place put it is easy enough to be knocked back out again if needed, in fact it is easier to remove the Randal pin than it is to remove the bennett one in the first place.

As for the pin breaking the Randal pin is a grade 8 pin and has none of the weakness that causes the pin to break like the Bennett one does.
I run my front truck so loose the washers sometimes rattle. and I have never had any problems with this modification, come to think of it I never managed to break a Bennett pin either.

Take care,
Barry Wink
_________________
Barry Brown.
Rope & Canvas Craftsman.
Practical Works Of Art,
Inspred By Tradition.
http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/ropeandcanvas
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Knotty.Bear
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Barry



Joined: 19 Jul 2008
Posts: 101
Location: Middlesex, U.K. Near Heathrow Airport

PostPosted: Wed Feb 04, 2009 11:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

cappa wrote:
You should sell the modified Bennetts as "the Barnett"  Laughing


it only takes a few minutes to change the pin, cut down the Khiro an put it all back together. any fool could do it (I can) the only person that would buy this would have to be to dumb to SK8   Laughing

Take care,
Barry Wink
_________________
Barry Brown.
Rope & Canvas Craftsman.
Practical Works Of Art,
Inspred By Tradition.
http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/ropeandcanvas
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Knotty.Bear
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pavedwave



Joined: 22 Oct 2007
Posts: 1120
Location: seattle wa usa

PostPosted: Wed Feb 04, 2009 11:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Barry wrote:

http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Kno...r/TrukBushingModificationsForLDP#
The pictures and details should be ample instruction.

Barry, you've just inspired me to get some webpage updates made.    I'll add your tutorial here as part of it.   These are some really great, clear pics and descriptions!

I'm glad you guys are pursuing the bushing and pin preservation stuff.  To be quite honest, I'm running the same bushings and pin for over half a year now, many hundreds of miles.   I must just ride/wear my bushings to a certain point, and then it just "stays there", the bushings somewhat deformed  (especially the bottom cone bushing) but for some reason, not so chewed up by the threads.   I'm perplexed why this is.   This is with an orange bottom cone, white barrel middle, and Carver CX cone on top.  

What really needs an overhaul on my main ride is the pivot cup, it's totally hammered / thinned out against the cup walls, and I can't even remove it anymore with needlenose pliers, will probably have to melt it out with a torch!   The truk's (aluminum) pivot pin and cup are completely deformed as well, they rubbed down a long time ago when I kept riding it metal on metal -- doh!   But I'm basically of the habit lately that unless something's "broken" I don't mess with it.

So rebound bushing-wise, I'm probably not riding an optimal setup at this point, but I will look into upgrading my pins one of these weekends, then finally change the bushings -- just keep saying it, it'll have to happen, right?  Razz


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