The not so long distance pumper?

gldsndz · The not so long distance pumper?

So, this is cross posted at the Silverfish, but I really wanted to get the LDP crew's advice on this. I would like to get a board that can do the LDP thing, but I'm not likely to be doing 20-25 miles at a time. Probably more like 2-10miles. And I would like something that I can feel comfortable taking down some hills, nothing serious, just able to carve some long gentle hills. I'll probably be putting Bennett 6.0's on the board.

My Silverfish posthttp://www.silverfishlongboar...-help-me-round-out-my-quiver.html
Camel's Similar Post
http://www.silverfishlongboarding...dragonfly-light-ldp-comments.html

Summary of what I am looking for:
me: 5'7, 160lbs
Deck: slight camber, light, longer than 38", I think some flex would be nice
Uses: light LDP, cruising, some long gentle hills (under 30mph), and hopefully some dancing
Don't want: concave, heavy
Price: 150 max, would like to keep it under 130
I only need a deck, I have Randall 150's, 180's and Bennett 6.0's to put on this deck.

Boards I'm thinking about:
INSECT Big Bug Specs:
Length: 44" (112.0cm)
Width: 8.75" (22.25cm)
Form: Camber/Concave
Wheelbase (inner hole to inner hole): 34" + 35.5" (86.3cm + 90.1cm)

INSECT Pintail Specs:
Length: 40" (101.5cm)
Width: 9" (23.0cm)
Camber: 3/8" (1.0cm)

LBL Walkabout
Length: 41.5"
Width: 9.75"
Camber: Slight and forward of center.
Wheelbase: 27.5, 28.5, 29.5"
Construction: glass, birch, and carbon-fiber

LOADED Vanguard
Length: 38"
Wheelbase: 33"

Fiberflex 44"Pintail or 42 Cutaway
Wheelbase (inner hole to inner hole): 29" + 30"

pchewn · LBL Walkabout

It's not that heavy...

I like it and I'm only doing about 2-4 miles.

I've gone down some hills and it works OK for that.

I have not ridden the other boards, so what does my vote mean?

pavedwave

This is what I posted on the Fish before I realized you posted here!

"I don't really distinguish 'light' from any other distance pumping. What works for 1 mile works for 100 miles as well. You can push up to your max cruising speed in just a couple hundred feet. It's really a question of where you want your fastest flatland speed to top out -- how big your longest pumping strides are going to be. In other words what top speed do you feel comfortable cruising at, more than how far do you want to travel.

So of the choices above, the one "full on" LDP board ironically has a slower potential speed, because of it's shorter wheelbases -- that's the Walkabout. But it's designed better for pumping and cruising, because of its width. Larry could always drill a couple longer wheelbases if you wanted that, as well. But I think that board, or either of the Fibreflexes, are the most agile of the bunch."

The Walkabout does have concave, but it's pretty mellow. I still feel comfortable moving about on it, and it's not the kind of concave that wrenches up your feet -- I do know foot arch pain!!

The Insects listed are too narrow for my taste, I owned the Bug and for that reason went to a wider board design when I started working with Roe. More width == better pumping leverage, whether you're going short or long, and you'd probably have more fun walking around on it as well!

The Fibreflexes are great decks -- I really like their construction. The only thing you want to make sure is that the flex and width works for you, because as far as I know they're an "off the shelf" board. But I think they come with multiple wheelbases so that's one way to adjust quickly.

gldsndz · LBL

Thanks again, James. Taking both your posts in context, I'm really leaning toward the LBL. I was before, but kinda wanted to hear about carving on the board and some particulars. I really like what you are saying about width and the leverage you can get with it.

Thanks.

gldsndz · and what about Roe

Since I am likely to go down the LDP direction, and the ROE LDP is only an extra 5 bucks...

Should I start thinking in that direction?

Parson Adams

Yep, I love my Roe Mermaid. It's a little thin where I place my backfoot--my legs aren't long enough to reach back toward the hips, but I wouldn't trade for the world. I've decided that I prefer the Bennett 5.0 rather than the 4.3 on it. I was actually lifting the front wheels off of the ground with the 4.3. Everything stays nice and grounded with the 5.0.

edp_swakakin

LDP-Pumping is like the Matrix....

You have a Red Pill and a Blue Pill. Once you take the Red Pill you can never go back..... Smile

Can I get an Amen!!!

Seriously though - Roe is a great choice.

camel

My "other" vote was for Roe.

I have the "stiff as a board" version with low concave/camber. Took a while to get used to the stiffness, but now I really like it.

I just wish he could get into the mainstream distribution channels. His stuff would definitely be getting alot of well deserved attention at that point.

I still think that the Insect DragonFly is a great shape. It just needs to be a bit bigger all around. But it is a great compromise board with lots of applications depending on the setup.

C

gldsndz · Roe

Ok... I'm now pretty much set on the ROE Mermaid. And I'm pretty sure I'm going with the Light Flex for my 160lbs that the ROE may help slim down to 150. I'm hoping to let it loose down some hills too, so I'm totally stoked.

To Concave or not to Concave is the question... and based on my concave experience(tired soles), I think I'll have to pass.

Thanks all. Post any other thoughts you may have. After I order, I am sure I will have lots of set up questions.

camel

Roe's flex is stiffer than you think. You made a good choice on the flex level. Camber and concave is nice for generating power. IMHO. I know you will be stoked either way.

C

gldsndz

yeah... I'm torn on the to Concave or not Concave.

How mellow is the Roe Concave?

Is there still a completely flat spot for your foot?

How does the Concave change the action of the pump?

gldsndz · concave?

hmm.... unexpectedly, I think it looks like concave may have won....

camel

The concave is really low and so is the camber. The Camber gives my deck a little more snap. Although now that I have lost 50 lbs, it is getting to be pretty stiff. The concave is barely noticeable unless you look straight down the front of the deck.

gldsndz · Setup?

Ok. I ordered my ROE(light/concave/camber), can't wait. Now I have a few questions about set-up. I am out of cash after buying the board, so I will have to make due with what I have for a few months until I can afford a new bennett truck and a tracker back and some big wheels.

Bennett 6.0 front
Randal 180 back (yes, I know I have an extra inch problem, been running it on my other boards, not such a big deal.)

Pink 70mm Zigs

I have a Khiro Riser pack, but what else will I need to avoid wheel bite?

thanks.

ps, on the extra inch on the back truck, maybe I should reverse my wheels... your thoughts?

camel

Sounds like a fun setup. If you have a Khiro rail pack, you should be all good on wheelbite. With the 6.0, check out the pics I have on my Flickr page. It will help you set it up.

http://flickr.com/photos/chaddhall/sets/72157605092446125/

Hope that helps.

C

gldsndz

Camel,

Can't quite tell what you are up to in the photo... is that a combo of risers to equal a 1/4 inch riser, then wedging? With my other boards, i'm running out of wedging, so I think I may need to pick up some regular risers.

camel

Take a look at this picture specifically;

http://flickr.com/photos/chaddhal...9860144/in/set-72157605092446125/

I put notes in the pic to show you exactly what I did. I run BigZigs with 0 wheel bite. (But you have to click the link for that, so I will explain.)

From the truck down it is a 15 degree, then a 5 degree, then a 2 degree reversed to add height. Works like a champ for me. A 15 degree and a 3 degree on a 1/8th inch riser would have worked as well. I just didn't have a riser handy at the time. (I was at the beach on vacation.)

C

gldsndz

Also... I've found with anything more than 10 degree wedging on the Bennett 6.0's and 70mm wheels, the kingpin drags on any small bump. Are you finding the same problem?

camel

Yeah, I think JP found that as well. I figured out how to completely solve that problem though. Ride on smooth surfaces or go off the bump perpendicular! Smile

And I am running 75's. (BigZigs). You wouldn't need as much wedging with 70's to combat wheel bite.

gldsndz

Khiro's soft angled risers - 60a or 80a?

stocago

I'd get the 80a because I think 60a would be too mushy and would get squooshed/flattened.

This thread got me to experiment with wheelbases and I ended up moving my back truck to the back holes. This increased my wheelbase by two inches. I like the change, but I have found that I am losing traction on the back wheels, something that would rarely happen before. I feel that it has to do with my stance. Although I've tried to open up my stance and try to move back my rear foot a bit, I tend to find my way back to my old stance/position.

camel

No idea. Never really thought about it. Khiro Bob does answer his emails though.

C

camel

stocago

I'll try softer rear bushings, maybe loosen the trucks a bit too. Thanks for the advice.

stocago

That seemed to help some, but I ended up dewedging my back truck an additional 4-5 degrees and that was the ticket. It really sticks now.

dmccoach

RE: "popping bushings..." First, I have found that overtightening can lead to this - generally, if the bushings are excessively bulging when unloaded, the nut is too tight and it may "give" somewhere when under stress - if it needs to be stiffer, go to a higher duro, right?

Otherwise, buy some of this stuff: http://www.compurail.net/PriceLis...ives%20-%20Retail%20Pricelist.pdf

It is generally called a cyanacrolate instant glue (or CA Glue) - You want the gap filling stuff - you can get this stuff pretty much at any Hobby store like Hobbytown, etc. But be sure it is either the "thick" or "gap filling" CA (you will see this stuff is a bit pricey, like $12 bucks a bottle).

Take your separate bushings, smear a liberal amount of this stuff on each surface to be joined, and set it aside to dry (like one hour to fully cure) - or spend a few extra bucks for the "flash cure" stuff which is a clear, water-like substance in a small spray bottle made to "flash" the CA which instantly turns the glue into a cement..

That's it - they wont't pop or come apart - And, BTW for the Bennetts I like to use combined bushings (experiment w/different duro's cemented together) but they are:

For the bottom (board side): the "large cone" (aluminum-washer) (Khiro) plus a barrel (cut in half - I just use a real sharp razor for a good level cut) and CA'd together

For the top: A single cone w/aluminum or plastic washer insert

This combination also eliminates the Bennett cup washers ..... Have fun!

Dan

p.s. Just an off topic funny story - This CA glue is nasty stuff - it is not harmful to you, but it will INSTANTLY bind your skin... they actually use it in triage/surgeries to quickly bind wounds... It does come off your skin you will just need to rub it for like 2 days before it peels off...

At any rate, when I was a kid, because we used this stuff in model airplane hobbies (glueing balsa) we had it around, and on one particularly cruel day, we picked on the neighborhood nerd-kid, forced his hand into a fist around a clothes line and gobbed his hand with thias stuff (you know how cruel kids can be) - Needless to say he was stuck there for a while and we got in some deep trouble with the neighborhood moms!!

Ah those were the days (1970's in my case). Like Stevie sings in his song "...I wish those days --- would --- come back again --- cause I love 'em so..."

gldsndz · Woo Hoo!

Got my Mermaid in the mail today!

The not so long distance pumper?

LBL Walkabout

LBL

and what about Roe

Roe

concave?

Setup?

Woo Hoo!