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wafflesole

New mermaid questions!

What to do?

Ok, so i got my mermaid this morning in the post. I have far too many options....

1] Do I set up the mermaid using the splitfire front and rears i currently have on my slalom?
(It's a red one on the front, 90mm wide but able to be spaced out to 110mm on a 50* randal baseplate and silver on the back 90mm with the same spacing options with a tracker rt-x baseplate) And if so.. will the double white khiro barrels on the front and the blue khiros on the back still be fine?

2] Do i use the skennet I have lying about and buy a tracker for the rear?

3] do i wait a week to test out the new LDP virages?

If I do 1. I can do 2 for my slalom.
If I do 2. I can leave my slalom as it is.
If I do 3 will I regret it terribly when I hand them back? and then what? 1 or 2?
zatoichi37

hahaha, so many choices. i think you should go for 2, because you don't want to mess up your slalom setup, but i have no idea about the virages...
LDPanda

I think your best option (aside from the virages) would be to take the 50* splitfire off your slalom setup and put it on the mermaid, then put the skennet on your slalom deck and buy an rt-s (or seismic or airflow or another splitfire) for the rear of the mermaid.

IMO, the skennet is a little iffy on an ldp setup, the spacing can add extra stress on the axles and you would have a lot more KP clearance with the split front.

just my 2c, sounds like youve got a nice problem to have!
Batalero

Since the Splitfire and the Skennett have a different geometry and feel it's hard to tell you what option is the best, both works really well.

If you're doing a lot of hybrid or GS slalom keep the Split on your slalom board,you need the extra traction and stability it provides. If you're doing more TS the Skennett and the RTS will do the job more than fine and you can mount the Split on your Mermaid.

Both options works great for LDP. The best thing you can do is some testing and get an idea by yourself, riding the Split on a 60 cones downhill course  is really different than riding 50 miles straight on flatland. I found the Split more physical to ride but much more stable than the Bennett when downhilling.

Option 3 get 2 pairs of Virage LDP and send 1 over here Very Happy
My best advice is put some test Wink

Personally I use the Bennett when I do flatland and the Split when there are fast downhill slopes on the track

IMHO Blue Khiros seems a bit soft for the rear truck unless you weight 120lbs , but if it works for you, keep at it.

Anyway, the Mermaid is a great board and works great with options 1 & 2 and I'm quite sure The Virage will do the job to
Have Fun.

Panda is right : "the spacing can add extra stress on the axles and you would have a lot more KP clearance with the split front. "
wafflesole

Batalero wrote:

IMHO Blue Khiros seems a bit soft for the rear truck unless you weight 120lbs , but if it works for you, keep at it.


I weigh 200 so what do you suggest?


I think i'm going to try the splits on the ldp and stick the skennet on the slalom with a tracker rear.







...





after i've given back the virages.
blake

on a rear truck i have never found anything better then bottom red top yellow kiros. i am 160 and it works for people heavier then me to. so stay in that range i think because i run this on a Tracker RTS and have never had any time on a split.
LDPanda

I weigh 200 also and the best setup ive had so far is green venom bottom and red venom top (93/90). I prefer it in the eliminator shape but barells work too. Ive used that setup in both RT-S's and airflow (same as split).
Batalero

Yellow and/or Red Khiro's or others  in the 90-95 range.
zatoichi37

try a yellow top and black bottom bushing  Very Happy
RiPPer

When mixing bushing duros on one truck do most of you prefer harder on bottom and softer on top, or softer on bottom and harder on top?

And why?
LDPanda

On a front truck i use a softer bottom and a harder top. The soft bottom allows a wide range of movement and the harder top provides more return to center. On a rear truck i use a harder bottom and softer top. The harder bottom restricts the range of movement and the softer top provides a bouncier return to center and prevents the truck from getting too locked up. Right now im actually using the same duro top and bottom in the rear but using a stim shape on bottom (more stable) and a barrel on top (bouncier).

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