Lots of free time . . .

LDPanda · Lots of free time . . .

So, I've been snowed in for four days and had a flash of inspiration/boredom! Instead of buying an LDP-specific deck, why not build one? The obvious answer being I don't have the materials/tools/experience to do so. In comes my old S9 BH deck to the rescue! So here's my plan (I apologize for the poor quality of the photo/"editing"):

Yellow Dots: Holes to be drilled.
Red Dots: Pre-existing holes to be used.

Phase 1:
Step 1: Straight cut across nose.
Step 2 (optional): Two angled cuts across nose.
Step 3: Sand nose to shape.
Step 4: Measure and drill holes for truck mounting.

Phase 2:
Step 1: Sand down ¼“ off entire bottom of deck.
Step 2 (Optional): Sand down two “waves” into the bottom of the deck.
Step 3: Apply one coat of polyurethane varnish.
Step 4: After drying, lightly sand with fine grit sandpaper.
Step 5 (Optional): Apply “Sharpee” graphics.
Step 6: Apply second coat of polyurethane varnish.
Step 7: After drying, very lightly sand with very fine grit sandpaper.
Step 8 (Optional): Tape off designs and paint with polyurethane boat paint.

I have zero experience with board building, but this doesn't look hard. If you have any suggestions, something I missed, please lemme know. Thanks.

pavedwave

looks like a great plan!

i always like using pre-existing holes whenever possible, then using the baseplate as the template for drilling the other two holes --- the front one obviously you'll have to do without that. I'd say just be sure to give yourself a couple front truck mount options in case your first drilling isn't straight. there are a lot of techniques to getting perfectly straight holes, Gareth has an aluminum jig that goes the entire length of the board. I always find that the trickiest part to "free hand"

curious about the 'waves' on the bottom. progress shots maybe soon since we're all trapped in the snow, eh? Wink

LDPanda

Yeah, still trapped. I talked to my carpenter buddy and he said he'd help me out with the jigsaw work when things clear up. To elaborate on my idea of "waves" my idea is to sand down two thinner spots, one just in front of the rear truck mount, the other just beyond the center of the board (well before the front truck mount and foot placement). These would be horizontal (when looking at the board standing on its tail). My reasoning for this is it would add vertical flex (ie. the board will go down further when standing on it) without reducing its torsional strength (ie. it won't 'twist' more). I know the BH deck is very stiff, and even after sanding off a couple plys, i suspect it will still be stiff. Plus, i like the idea aesthetically.

Edit: I just re-read your post, unfortunately there wont be any progress shots until after the snow clears as I live in an apt. and my buddy with a garage and tools lives across the lake Sad

gboom

any progress on this project?

LDPanda

Yes and no. I cut off the nose and did some shaping, i also redrilled the truck mounts. I have a new found level of respect for custom board builders, shaping is really really really hard. I cant seem to get the nose quite the way i want it and frankly i got so frustrated with it that i set this project aside for a while. I think its still a good idea, the BH deck is very versitile and i would highly recommend chopping one up if you have the time and skill to do so, im just not very talented in this respect i guess. I spent hours and hours with my dremel, metal files and sand paper trying to get the nose to be symmetrical and totally phailed at it. This might be a project i pick up again if it gets really rainy or something, but for now its on hold indefinetly.

model.citizen

shape up one side of the nose only...find the centre line (draw it along the length of the board) and make it purdy.

then take a sheet of cardboard (i use the boxes from 12packs of beer), bolt it to the front truck holes, and trace the nicely shaped side onto it.

take the cardboard off, cut out the shape you've just traced onto it, bolt it back on to the deck upside down, and trace the new line onto the other side of the deck. cut that out, and she'll be pretty damn symmetrical.

worked for me nicely when i reshaped a 38" pintail into a Ceviche-looking dropthru pusher. only real fun'n'games was when i came to do the shaping - the 8ply was hard as rock, and went thru a couple of sanding drums.