Khiro Bushings Shredding - Solved

edp_swakakin · Khiro Bushings Shredding - Solved

Well this my bushing after one 20 mile session...

I was going through them like crazy. So I came up with a solution. I went to my local hardware store and found this plex tube. Cost like 3 bucks.

Took it home and cut it to fit right under the kingpin nut.

I had to use a lock wrench to hold it and screw it onto the king pin. Putting the bushings on took a bit of work but it does fit.

***Warning*** Because of it stretching the bushing a bit, it does give the truck a tighter feel. But after a couple of miles the bushings started to break in and feel good. I tend to like a tighter truck though. I'm happy to break them in knowing that by the time I get to were they feel good they won't be shredded to peices...

The results after a 20 mile session. (I really hammered it) Only a slight wear to the Plex tube from the truck but no physical damage to the bushings. Even if the truck wears strait through the plex tube. I don't think it will matter much...

This config seems to work well too.

pavedwave

thats awesome eric, I dig it!! you should pass this link onto brian bennett.

i'll bet its extra-extra snug with the Khiro cone + barrel on bottom -- the last modification you might try on this, is slicing a thin piece off either the barrel or the cone then sticking them together, like Carrasco's been doing on the sk8kings "skennett" -- because as you know, those two together are just a little taller than a single bottom bennett bushing, so you really have to smoosh them down. i'll bet with the snug center it's even more so.

great job though, save you some $ in the long run.

edp_swakakin

Just a quick note - all white seems to work even better.

egret

I wish the kingpin threads didn't go down so far. I'm going to look for that plex tube. I tried wrapping the threads in teflon tape and it's helped. I want to try epoxy too to fill in the theads and make it smooth.

Nice pictures, BTW.

Parson Adams

Why hasn't anyone put this into the market? Such an easy fix. I don't know why I haven't thought of this before. I use sleeves for my cymbal stands--this is much like the same concept.

GREAT JOB, Eric!

camel

Khiro Bob basically laughed/put me off when I suggested he could make an improvement to his bushings by doing something like this.

C

edp_swakakin

I have now put a number of miles now pumping on both the Fathom Proto and my Roe Cross Step. Over all I can still tell even with an all white configuration that the truck is a little tight at the edges of my pumps. I believe that it is because the tube is stretching the bushings. And there is no longer the extra space for the bushings to give. Over all it's expectable to me. But if your used to your trucks being very loose you might not like it. ***So be warned of this*** Here are the results after some more miles pumping on both. Notice the wear on the tube. After taking the tube off the kingpin and inspecting it. The hanger has not gone through it yet.

Proto Fathom after 45 - 50 miles (Bennett 5.0)

Roe Cross Step after 40 miles (Bennett 4.3)

In addition to this I also used a Dremel to smooth my edges of my trucks. If you look closely at your trucks when you get them they have small imperfections. Just the slightest imperfection over a number of miles can also really eat up your bushings and cups. (USE WITH CAUTION) A little goes a long ways. And make sure to wear the proper safety gear. You don’t want to breathe the metal or get it into your eyes.

Hanael

hm.

on the day i ride your board, it's just too...stiff for my liking.
I was about to try it myself, but it doesn't feel...right.

The flex tube really changes the feel of the bennet.

camel

When polishing the components, a dremel may be too much. Try a little sandpaper and a buffing wheel with some rouge. It will be glassy smooth when you get done. You could also try using a smaller diameter tube with a high psi rating. Drill out the center to get it to fit the kp. That would keep the bushing from being so tight. Also, maybe cut a couple of small sections to fit just inside the bushing and not limit the hanger movement around the kp. Remember, Bennett kp's can break, this does put more force on the kp due to the limited movement. A grade 8 upgrade might be prudent.

Overall, great idea and great execution. Don't take any of my comments negatively. Just being constructive.

C

edp_swakakin

camel

Oh, and hey, seriously good idea threading it onto the kp. My oranges look like hamburger right now. I gotta work on this as well.

stocago

I guess that boring out larger holes for both the hanger and bushings would be a big hassle. Is there a type of tape available that is more durable than electrical tape that could be wrapped around the kingpin?

edp_swakakin

Hey camel - stocago !!!

Thanks alot you all got me thinking even more. Here is what I came up with. I have yet to ride it but it looks promising. Let me know what you all think. The only major thing I had to do is Dremel the center of each bushing. But it didn't take long at all.

I found an Aluminum tube that fits over the kingpin

Without bushings - checked the turn radius This lead me to believe there is enough clearance.

This is the Dremel tool I used to bore out the bushings - took about 3 min for each one.

Link

Here is how far I screwed down my kingpin

I can turn the wheel now much easier

Give me some time and I will report back to everyone.

(Update 18 mile 1st impression)

Much Better!!! - No visable damage to the bushings and only a slight wear to the tube. If anything I could have bored the bushings less. Making them a bit more snug on the tube. It's not that the truck was too loose but I like the idea of having more bushings as long as it's not too tight on the edges of my pumps.

Parson Adams

Eric,

Can you give the specs on the tubing and and bushing diameter? It will save me some time from asking at Lowe's: Can I stick my Kingpin in your tubing?

Thanks for another great idea.
Jim

edp_swakakin

No problem Jim here ya go - and the tube should slide freely over the kingpin. As for the bushing diameter I just kept checking it every so often to see when it would finally fit over the aluminum tube. We will see how it holds up over the next couple of days. Smile

camel

I am going to try this as well, but take the aluminum tube and cut it to fit just the bushing one for the top and combine the two bushings on one tube for the bottom. Too bad we can't get khiro bob to make a bennett bushing for the bottom.

pavedwave

dayum! that's looking awesome Eric. I think this echoes what camel was saying where it seems like the thinnest tube possible is what's going to really nail this.

the closest thing I've found to "bennett bushing for the bottom" is having Karrot from Silverfish make bennett-height bushings out of abec11 wheels. i think the pinks and soft greens are the best I've tried so far.

camel

Has anyone tried the epoxy on the threads or JB Weld on the threads trick yet? I am getting ready to do it and wanted feedback if there is any yet. I have a new set of bushings ready to go.

pavedwave

camel

If you don't glue them, the barrel tends to blow out the side at the cap bushing.

I have used 2-Ton White Two Part epoxy to do this (I use this stuff for all kinds of things...). It has a little give in it so it is not as brittle as the Gorilla glue. Once you slice the bushing, be sure to rub both sides with some 150 or so grit sand paper for really good adhesion between the rubber and the "glue".

The lower bushing doesn't blast out after that.

If you slice the cap bushing it's a little too small in diameter. Slice the barrel to keep them the same diameter.

Guess I will just go ahead and fill the threads and report back since no one has tried it yet.

C

lo-rez · Aha!

I'm glad I'm not the only one who's had this problem! So James, you'd recommend using the cone but modifying (probably the barrel) and then sticking the two together?

Thanks for the input guys.

And by the way, Camel, the Insect Dragonfly is really doing well. Mine is a stiff flex, which I believe to actually be more rigid than the flex 1 on my Dervish.

gldsndz

I've also found that if you use the same color/duro on the cone and barrel, there is less slippage.

edp_swakakin

Well after many more miles on this one bushing setup. Here are my results. The tube wear does not seem to be getting much worse than what it already is. I plan to be using this bushing quit a bit longer. It feels really good at this point. And when it looks a bit too warn I'll just flip it. The other side looks brand new.

egret

first off, I still wish we could just get a kingpin threaded down just about a centimeter and a half or so down.

I tried JB Weld over the threads. I used a Popsicle stick to smooth it out as much as possible but the stuff settled even smoother on it's own. I got it down about a half inch past the threads. It cured leaving a nice glassy surface. Next time I'll clean the KP better and apply it thinner to just fill in the threads. The thickness I have does not leave enough clearance for the metal tipped khiro bushings. I had to bore out a cupped washer and use a regular khiro. The bushings are a little snug. No biggie.

I went out and pumped about 5 miles ad examined the bushings. No noticable wear so far. The JB Weld came off on the smooth shaft but not the threads. I didn't use a degreaser and didn't roughen the surface before applying the JBW.

I'll get more miles in before I give it a thumbs up but so far so good.

Belegnole

umm, just a thought and I don't know if it has been tried...

Find a LONG bolt that is only threaded for the first couple of inches. Cut it to the length you need and thread the portion you want....

geolemon

"Grind King" used to make replacement kingpins back in the day, meant to be used on shortboards. They have an inverted kingpin with a very low profile, rounded head (allen key to adjust it) to provide extra clearance when doing things like smith grinds... So, the nut goes in the baseplate, just like with Randal R11 trucks.

Those kingpins were smooth all the way down the shaft, until you got to the last maybe 3/4" or so. Plus they were absolutely solid - I still have mine today, I've rigged them to work with a set of Tensor trucks on my shortboard. I think I bought them about 1991, 1992...

Now, I believe Grind King only makes complete trucks - but I could be wrong! It certainly would be worth checking out if they are still available (and the motherload find of the century to find some guy who bought a "lot" of obsolete kingpins on Ebay peddling them on Ebay for $1 Laughing

).

Here's another thought though:
The Grind King kingpins were probably indestructable partly due to higher strength steel - but probably also due to the increased effective diameter of having the solid, unthreaded kingpin.
Especially with the big-style street skateboarding of today (ollieing big staircases, handrails, etc), it would seem that a strong kingpin would definitely be a choice "upgrade item".

Aftermarket shortboard kingpin manufacturers probably already make a replacement kingpin that is like the Grind King in that respect, even if the Grind King isn't on the market anymore. right?

geolemon

For example, look at this kingpin by shortboard truck company Krux:

That is solid and smooth, save for a half inch or so, it looks like.

Just an example - maybe there's aftermarket hope! Cool

LD skater since 1971

I just bought my first bennett front truck. I remember seeing the khiro bushing shredding problem. So The way I fixed the problem was I first used a inverted top track washer then the bennett large washer.
Then I had this thick heavy duty 3/8th inch electrical grade shrink wrap from when I made body board leashes.
So I cut to length and used my heat gun to shrink it on the king pin.
Then I put a large blue Khiro bushing, Then the truck and a large orange Khiro bushing with the stock large bushing washer.
I will keep you posted on how this works.

Hanael

we need pictarz~~~

edp_swakakin

Awesome! Definitely keep us posted.

LD skater since 1971

After 20 miles on the shrink wrap over the king pins it look brand new still.
Also no torn up bushings you just need a shrink wrap a heat gun or Bic lighter.
Be care full on the Bic lighter method you can burn your finger on the hot heat shield.
I use a old heat gun I have left over when I was trying to make body boards.

Barry

How Do All Wink

I have been using the heat shrink method described by Terry.
I am using Holey Pink Bubblegum Bushings in my Bennett 5.0 and Skennett, I had to use a little grease to help tease them over the heat shrink as they fit really neat.
after a few miles on this set up I can confirm that there is no shredding an either the bushing or the heat shrink.

Thanks for the tip Terry.

Take care,
Barry Wink

Barry

Update!
After riding Umpteen miles with Eric on Saturday, and I mean Umpteen Eric inspected my Bushings, and both the heat shrink tube and top cone bushing had shredded pretty bad but not so bad as to thrash another Umpteen miles on them, Note: I had only been using this set up for a week.
I will not be using the Heatshrink again, it is not upto the sort of abuse I like to meter out Very Happy

I will however be using Eric's ali tube trick. which on his month old bushings showed very little wear at all, nice one Eric.

Take care,
Barry

LD skater since 1971

That to bad the shrink wrap does not work for you. I only have it on the front truck of both a 4.3 Bennett with triple bushing set up. I also have the same set up on a Tracker RTX. I do take my trucks apart after about every 30 miles to check the the shrink wrap and the bennett truck shrink wrap breaks down or be come torn the RTX does not.
But I have about 200 yards of heavy duty shrink wrap I used on body board leashes I was making back awhile ago. The black shrink wrap is 1-mm in thickness and is 25-mm flat before I shrink it on the kingpin with my heat gun.
I just took both hangers off and I noticed that the Bennett truck hanger hole is 19-mm across tracker RTX hanger hole is 15-mm across.
I don't know if that has any thing to do with the shredding problem.

Plus I grind down all my first cone bushing till the pivot sit all the way down in the base plate pivot cup. Because I grind it down to fit the king pin is not scraping back and forth on the hanger hole because it's also centered.
I had to grind down the first bushing on the bennett truck to 8-mm thick and the tracker down to 4-mm thick so the pivot would seat all the way in the pivot cup. Then I stack a orange or white Khiro barrel bushing next then hanger and then a orange or white Khiro barrel bushing and cap and nut.
I am a firm believer that a skateboard truck was designed with a certain tolerance that can be exploited or tweaked a little to be safe. But if you go to extreme and the pivot is not fully seated is out of the cup by a few millimeters and the hanger is wedged up near the kingpin not in the center but near the the hanger ring.I noticed this when using a full size top cone bushing. You have changed the trucks mechanical soundness and geometry some thing will give. Luckily it only been tore up bushing and broken king pins.

Back when I first started freestyle skateboarding seriously we use to run tracker clear top bushing on top and bottom of our trucks only.We were busting king pins every hour of riding just to keeping the trucks from turning. That why I still have about 50 tracker king pins tracker gave me back in the day.
I got sick of changing kingpins plus it went against my thoughts on what skateboarding was.It was always about the turning and flowing in a surfing style. So I got rid of the hard bushings I kept putting softer and softer bushing in till I became comfortable with how the trucks performed and how they were meant to perform. I became a better skater for it and no one could ride my boards. I could do harder tricks or the same by adapting.

But I know how to solve the problem but I am not a engineer or have the financial backing.

What we really need to do is design a CNC milled out of aluminum front truck hanger. that will fit a tracker or bennett base plate like the split fire. But with LDP geometry to accept the three bushing stack and we would have a safe and almost maintenance free truck. It would probley propel faster and be more efficiently than the just trying to modifying our trucks to make it do a job it was not meant to do.
{I edited a bunch of stuff out that has nothing to with bushing talk.
Sorry I get to writing and it get long winded some times}

geolemon

Besides the idea of buying a purpose-built skateboard kingpin that isn't threaded except for the end (that idea seems to have been welcomed warmly... Confused

...fear of shortboard parts maybe? Laughing

), I had another idea.

Most hardware stores sell a rubber dip meant for coating tool handles like pliers. You could tape the threaded portion of the kingpin that you need to leave exposed, and dip the kingpin.

I just bought my first Bennett, so I haven't tried this yet - but when I decide to start playing with the bushings, I think this route seems easiest and avoids stretching the bushing hole, since you can keep it as a thin coating over (but filling in) the threads.

LD skater since 1971

Thats a good idea also.

Alec

How about fitting GrindKing inverted kingpins, the thread is on the bottom part of the kingpin?

I have some on some Indy 101's I'll have a look later and take some photos

Alec

Done.
Fitted Holey bushings to them.

The kingpin is inverted so that the thread is at the bottom.
The unthreaded part of the kingpin protrudes from the bottom of the Holey hourglass bottom bushing.

I must admit though that are are late 80's early 90's NOS Grindking kingpins the newer ones are shorter

Can someone throw up a picture of the bottom of a Bennett baseplate please?

Barry

How Do Alec & All Wink

Here's a link to a related topic, included are pictures from John Gallac (Samhell) of his bennett base plate with his reversed, jb welded kingpin fix type thingy, I hope this is what you are after?

http://pavedwave.myfastforum.org/about115.html&highlight=

If you need photos of un-doctered bennett's let me know, I will snap some pictures of some of mine, I have a couple with the kingpin removed also so if you need to see what that looks like?

Take care,
Barry Wink

Alec

cappa

scooterdad

Thought I might give this thread a bump. I am chewing through bushings already in the short three weeks I have had my board with 5.0 Bennett front. I have tried using Gorilla tape over the threads on the kingpin which helps but doesn't last more than one ride or a few miles. It seems to me that the hanger pinching the bushing towards the kingpin is a much an issue as the threads on the kingpin.

Any long-term feedback on the methods mentioned here? I like the low tech approach of the KB weld.

Thanks.

LDPanda

I use gorilla tape (i might be the only one, idk) and yes, it needs to be replaced every other session or so, but ive found it a cost effective and simple way to reduce shredding. Even if the tape gets pretty mangled, its still doing its job where it matters, under the bushings. I just replaced my bushings last night, put well over 150 miles on the last set before they just started feeling dead. Idk how this compares to others, but i am satisfied enough.

scooterdad

Thanks Panda. My Gorilla tape lasted well on my morning session today. I made it 15 miles with very little wear on the tape so far. I've been mixing up other things as well, such as using all orange bushings rather than one white (which I had been doing) and running inverted wheels on my Bennett 5.0/ Tracker rear combo, so I'm not entirely sure if something else isn't helping. I have also started adding some silicone grease over the bushings/hanger area to see if it prevents some grabbing/pinching.

I'm trying to keep it low tech if possible, but hopefully not waste bushings so quickly.

Barry

I posted this as a seperate thread here but had no interest in it so I will post it here, I modify my Bennett like this:

http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Kno...r/TrukBushingModificationsForLDP#
The pictures and details should be ample instruction.

I have done hundreds of miles on the same sets of bushing used in each truck not all in one day though Very Happy

and the bushing show "NO!" wear from the king pins I use.
It works so well for me that I bought all the Randal RII type king pins Vinny had left Wink

Good Luck.
Take care,
Barry Wink

scooterdad

Thanks Barry. That looks very promising. What happens though if the kingpin breaks? Is the truck then useless or is there a way to remove the broken kingpin if it has been epoxied in there (I am guessing that is what locktite 243 is) ?

This all begs the question: If Bennett knows that their trucks are being used so often for LDP set-up, why don't they produce a kingpin with less threading on it? Or at least make a modified version? Perhaps it is too small a market, but we certainly are gear-heads so they would sell well at least in small batches Smile

cappa

You should sell the modified Bennetts as "the Barnett" Laughing

Barry

Barry

pavedwave

scooterdad

Barry,

Did you ever try (or has anyone tried) fitting a Paris kingpin ? I ask because it looks knurled like the Bennett kingpin, which could make it fit better (or worse) depending on whether there is a standard knurled pattern.
http://thelongboardstore.com/hardware/kingpins/kingpin-25-bolts-1/

James, my guess is that you are less dependent on ideally tuned gear, but can rely on strength of technique, rhythm and endurance than a noob like me Smile

I need all the equipment help I can can.

pavedwave

keeping it ideally tuned is definitely not my strength, but i have been getting pickier about which setups work and which don't. the motto of 'anything can be pumped' holds true, but when it comes to the big commutes, if it ain't working well as a pumper, I'll just switch to pushing. part of that is just self-preservation Wink

what confuses me to this day is why my bushing in the center of the barrel, doesn't shred in the middle, it's smooth as a baby's butt. but I think the "secret" is that my bottom orange cone has been literally flattened out like a big fat pancake, with a diameter larger that provides a kind of "seat" for the white khiro barrel, and maybe it just floats around the kingpin enough that it doesn't rub and shred it?? it took maybe a month or so for it to deform into that shape, but it works really nice now. here's a shot I took at work on my cel phone

in any case I think it is smart to get it dialed right the first time out of the box. what I like most with Barry's shots is that shaved down barrel + bottom cone combination. so far, I like that combo more than the 2-cone hourglass combination, in terms of rebound.

oh, and as for the knurls -- I could be wrong, but my theory is that the knurls are what contribute to how the kingpins break on the stock bennetts, the fact that they have those "grooves" near the head of the pin leads to a weak point. I've only seen pins break right where the very first threading starts, OR (in the case of bennetts) right at the head where those knurls start.

jat.

Barry

How Do All Wink

I have not tried a Paris Kingpin, but looking at the thread it should do the job, but as for the knurled shaft that may make it harder to put in and take out if needed, wether the knurled pattern would have the same weakness that people have reported with the Bennett ones I don't know.

The randal pins are a perfect; snug fit, and the groves left in the base plate by the Bennett pin are a great key for the 243 thread locker.

James; the only reason I can think of for the middle of the barrel bushing still looking like new is that when you compress the bushings with the kingpin nut that a small void is created around the kingpin, when turning the barrel may not make a great deal of contact with the threads if any where as the top cone bushing may have more levereage against it from the kingpin causing it to be chewed and not the barrel. then again what I just typed could be a pile of crap Very Happy

one thing I do know is that the round bite marks in the top of the barrel are caused by the sharp edge of the hangers bushing cup opening, rounding off and polishing the bushing cups pretty much eliminates this damage.

jat; I am glad you like my instructions and I hope you have many miles of joy from your bushings Wink

Takle care,
Barry Wink

scooterdad

Barry,

Well I went ahead and ordered the Randal pins. I am looking forward to performing truck surgery soon. Is it critical to get the Loctite 243 vs the 242? I'll look for it this weekend.

Barry

scooterdad

Barry thanks for the adhesive advice.

Well, my package arrived from thelongboardstore.com today. I was home at lunch and was excited to try Barry's kingpin replacement idea, but there was an irregular tear in the manilla padded envelope on the side and all that was left inside was a little sticker and and cut open small plastic bag. Alas, no kingpins. No idea why anyone affiliated with the USPS would want to steal my kingpins. Perhaps it went to neighbor's house who opened it first then decided to deliver it empty?

It was weird to say the least. It was only $5, but I am a little hesitant to order from the same place again with the same mail carrier. Definitely odd ... sort of like insult to toe injury.

scooterdad

Well, good news update! No it isnt that my kids actually tore into the package. I heard back from thelongboardstore.com, and they are sending out replacements!

Belegnole

All in all we deal with some pretty good retailers in this sport...Glad to hear your going to get replacements.

scooterdad

Barry,

Thanks to your detailed instructions, I completed the Barry- Bennett with Randal II kingpin mod this morning. I may indeed by a fool and perhaps almost too dumb to skate as it was touch and go trying to get the old Bennett kingpin out with a hammer then later attempting to cut the new kingpin down slightly (all I had was a wood miter saw that I now might need to replace). I also found it a little challenging to hammer the new kingpin into place and seat it deep enough into the baseplate given all the odd angles of the baseplate making it difficult to secure.

I will say in my defense that I have a weak set-up of tools at home.

Somehow I got it all back together and I look forward to many miles of shred-free-bushing skating.

My best,
Landy

Ian the Groove Worshipper

I, too, have done the Randal kingpin swap that was so nicely tutored by Barry.

I found that the Randal kingpin is about 1-2mm longer than the stock Bennett. In that KP clearance is already so scarce with the Bennett, I found this unacceptable. Thus, I placed a lock washer that I found in my Garage onto the kingpin, prior to putting the kingpin into the baseplate. This was sufficient to lessen the height of the pin by approximately 2mm, so that it matches the stock length, or if anything, is just a hair shorter.

If I knew where to look, I would consider placing an order for a 2.5 inch Grade 8 (or even stronger, of possible) kingpin, which would be custom ordered so that it would only have .3 to .5 inch of thread at the very end. I'm sure that if they were ordered in volume it may be something that could be sold for a nominal price, say 5 bucks or less to our community to offset the price of the order. Although the Randal KP is a definite improvement, there is still more threading than necessary for our use, which only causes further unnecessary bushing wear. Since I typically run my KP nut just flush enough to cause the plastic lockring to take hold, I'd really be fine with about 3/8 of thread at the very tip of the KP.

scooterdad

Yeah, that all makes a lot of sense.

I went ahead and cut off a couple millimeters of length on the new pin, which was challenging given my toolset, but resulted in a nice overall result with little exposure of the top bushing to kingpin thread. I think the custom kingpin idea you mentioned would be well received.

Landy

Barry

How Do All Wink

Sorry I have not been about lately; I am busy with other projects that require not getting sucked into cyberspace for hours on end.

Glad to hear you are finding the Randal modification an improvement; though not the ideal; it is very close and as always in this game a compromise on what is ideal and what is affordable.

Sorry about the tools landy, but the right tool for the job makes all the difference Very Happy

Happy Skating.

Take care,
Barry Wink

Belegnole

A small trick for those chopping the ends off of bolts. Before cutting the end off put a nut all the way on. After cutting remove the nut. This has helped me a bit in the past when I didn't have threading tools. You can also take the bolt to a belt sander and bevel the end a bit...

scooterdad

Thanks for the tip! Will certainly try this next time.

timbo666

Hey all,

I have found these 3 kingpins also:
http://www.octanesport.co.uk/shop...ers-etc/kingpin-grade-8-each.html
http://www.apollo11shop.co.uk/showdetails.asp?id=2203
http://www.apollo11shop.co.uk/showdetails.asp?id=2207

One is a stainless steel KP from octanesport and the other 2 are Randal KP's. One saying it is for the Randal R-II and the other for the Randal DH.

I like the look, and positive feedback, I've been reading on the Randal KP's. I'll probably be giving this a go!

Can anyone tell me which randal KP you have been using? or is there only one? 2.5"? Is there a difference between the R-II and the DH?

Also, slightly off topic however, what khiro cone bushings do people use? Standard cone or the tall version?

LDPanda

If Im not mistaken, the stock randal KP for r-ii's is 2.75". You might want to go to 3" to accomodate some taller bushing combos. I would also highly suggest placing the KP head (rather than the nut) in the baseplate (which is the opposite of how they were shipped to you). This places the point of greatest weakness (the threading) far away from the point of greatest stress (where the KP meets the baseplate). It also makes it easier to change bushings. Im sure samhell and some others will disagree though ^_^

I dont often use khiro cones in my ldp setup except to shim up barrels in the bottom of bennetts. For that purpose, i use the short cones that come in their standard pack (and often shave them down even shorter). Ive also used khiro bitch bushings as top bushings in the front of slalom setups. Ive never used their tall cone but I believe it is approximately the same dimensions as a bottom randal bushing and would probably be used for that purpose.

Khiro Bushings Shredding - Solved

Aha!